Chocolate Mousse Cake and Kumquat Confit

There are various ways to make a chocolate mousse, and two versions I usually stick to. Both come from my LCB Desserts book (Le Cordon Bleu Dessert Techniques by Laurent Duchene and Bridget Jones, 2002 edition). In one version is an airy mousse that instead of egg whites and butter uses a sugar syrup and whipped cream. For this chocolate mousse the creamy-beaten egg yolks are tempered with hot sugar syrup, before adding melted chocolate, and finally fluffing it with whipped cream. I used this chocolate mousse to make a Chocolate Dirt Dessert (recipe).

The version I use here, is the one where you whisk egg yolks and sugar to a pale cream, to which you add a mixture of butter and chocolate melted au bain marie, and - once smooth and silky - you gently fold in stiff-peaked egg whites. 

In all cases, you can chose your own level of sweet to bitter by using a lower or higher percentage of pure cacao chocolate. I prefer bitter dark, and use 70% - 86%.

You can make the cake as sweet or dark as you like, add flavor like orange peel, cointreau, grated ginger, or even cayenne pepper as you go.

This basic recipe is for a dark, bitter chocolate mousse cake.

Chocolate Mousse Cake

250 gr 85% chocolate*
100 gr 70% chocolate*
150 gr unsalted butter
6 large eggs, separated
125 gr raw cane sugar (I prefer to use this over granulated sugar in this cake)
1 tbsp vanilla extract
pinch of salt

• preheat the oven to 350F (180C)
• Melt butter and chocolate together au bain marie (hot water bath - you can melt it in the microwave if you prefer). 
• In a deep bowl, beat the egg yolks with the sugar until creamy. 
• In another bowl, beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form. 
• Add the vanilla extract and salt to the egg yolks and sugar, and mix well
• Fold the butter-chocolate mixture (once cooled but still liquid) into the egg yolks and sugar mixture. Mix in well into a uniform, silky "paste". 
• now fold in the stiff egg whites, starting with a spoonful, adding the next spoonful when the first is incorporated. Continue to fold in all egg white, working swift but careful not to "whisk" or "beat" (that would take the air out of the egg whites). Make sure you have no white streaks, and all is mixed in well
• pour into your prepared cake pan, and put in the preheated oven
• bake for 30 minutes, then test by inserting a metal skewer down the center. If the needle comes out only slightly moist, it is done. You can add another 5 minutes if you like the cake drier. If the skewer comes out too wet, give it 5 minutes more. Basically, bake between 30-45 minutes, checking every 5 minutes after 30 minutes until the needle comes out only slightly moist to dry.
• Let cool completely before taking out of the cake pan. Garnish with edible flower petals and serve with kumquat confit (recipe below).

*I've made this cake using 85% only, and it is for the diehard bitter-dark chocolate lovers. Adding 70% tones it down a bit. You could use 70% only, and still have that delicious dark-bitter chocolate taste.

Kumquat Confit

1 cup cleaned kumquat

1 cup sugar

tbsp water

To clean the kumquat: quarter and scrape off the pits. Blanch three times as follows: place the kumquat quarters in a pan, cover with cold water and bring to a boil. Immediately take off the heat, drain, and start over: cold water, boil, drain. This is to remove all impurities from the skin, and reduce the bitterness. It also softens the skins. After your 3-time blanching, add a cup of sugar and 1-2 tbsp water and bring to a boil. Now, let simmer for up to 30 minutes. Cool down in the syrup and keep until ready to use. If you don't use all: it keeps for weeks in an airtight container (under syrup).

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Enjoy!

Rhubarb, Blueberry & Cherry Upside Down Cake

These fruits were not chosen on purpose. It came about by necessity. I was going to make a rhubarb upside down cake, and found I bought not nearly enough rhubarb. It wasn't the first time either: somehow, as much as I love rhubarb, I always end up overestimating the amount the stalks will yield.

What I did have, was a pint of blueberries, and little ziplock of cherries I had pitted and frozen earlier. Oh well why not. I love these fruits individually (or is rhubarb a vegetable?), all three combined should give an appetizing amount of tart and sweet. I just hoped the tart deliciousness of rhubarb would still dominate. And it does: that typical taste of rhubarb is delightfully there, balanced with the aromatic sweetness of blueberry and cherries. If you are mad about rhubarb (like me), use all rhubarb - just make sure you have enough (about 4 cups for this cake)!

I used a 10inch round cakepan. If you use a 9inch, make sure you leave it in the oven longer: it will be higher with a slightly thicker cake layer.

fruit base 
2 cups cut rhubarb
1 cup blueberries
1 tsp cornstarch
1 cup pitted cherries (frozen)
1/2 cup raw cane sugar (or regular granulated sugar if you prefer)

2 tbsp (30gr) butter
batter
2 sticks softened butter (225gr) 

1 cup granulated sugar
4 large eggs, room temperature
1 tsp vanilla extract
1/3 cup organic plain yogurt
1 tsp baking powder
2 cups flour
1 tsp salt

• preheat the oven to 325F (160C)
• Cut the rhubarb in small chunks, add the cornstarch and 1 tbsp sugar (taken from the 1/2 cup raw cane sugar). Let macerate while you prepare the rest
• butter the cake pan and line the bottom with parchment paper
• sift flour, baking powder and salt together
• add the blueberries and cherries to the rhubarb. Mix together
• in a small sauce pan, heat 2 tbsp butter and raw can sugar until melted. Pour into the prepared cake pan and divide (making sure fruits are more or less evenly distributed)
• in a mixing bowl, on medium-high beat butter and 1 cup granulated sugar until creamy (2-3 min). Scrape the sides down every so often. Add the vanilla extract.
• add the yogurt, and mix in on medium high
• add the eggs, one by one, also on medium high
• turn speed to low, and add the sifted flour, baking powder, and salt
• mix until the batter looks smooth like peanut butter. If you find it too thick, add a tbsp milk
• divide batter over the fruits carefully (do it by dividing it in dollops across the fruit, then spread with a spoon that you wet with a little water)
• bake in the preheated oven for about 1 hour. Check by inserting a metal skewer: if it comes out dry, the cake is done
• when done, take out of the oven and leave to cool for about 20 minutes (not much longer: the syrup should still be runny but not too liquid.
• carefully turn the cake upside down on a cake plate.

Chocolate Mousse & Dirt Dessert

Spring is erupting. The dead-tree look in the garden is pushed to the back of a winter memory, and shades of refreshing green are taking over. Bulbs buried under dirt are peeking, some have already pushed the stalks up to carry young leaves and flower buds. Spring is also in this dessert, where young green is poking out of the dirt.... or is it dirt?

If you make this dessert in an empty (clean!) garden pot, it will look like a pot of dirt with plants. Try it, and surprise someone on April Fools' Day!

Chocolate Mousse & Dirt Dessert
(recipe generously serves 4)

Chocolate Mousse
2 egg yolks
80gr dark chocolate
40 ml sugar syrup (equal parts water & sugar)
150ml whipping cream

Whip the whipping cream until stiff. I don't add sugar, but feel free to do so. Whisk the egg yolks until pale and creamy. Bring the sugar syrup to a light boil, and then proceed to add to the egg yolks slowly, adding a couple of drops of the hot syrup to the yolks first to temper, then slowly add the rest in a steady stream while whisking until cool. Melt the chocolate (over hot water or in the microwave). Keep an eye on it: when 50% is melted, take it off the heat and let residual heat melt the rest of the chocolate. When slightly cooled, add to the sugar syrup and egg yolk mixture, working fast. When cool, start folding in the whipped cream in batches. Gently fold it in, from the outside inwards. As for the whipping cream and amount of it: the more you fold in, the airier the mousse becomes, but it will also make the mousse less pure "chocolatey". Taste when you're halfway through the whipped cream amount. If you're happy with the consistency and overall taste, don't use the rest. If not, continue to incorporate the cream.

The Dirt
To make the dirt, the easiest is to use dark chocolate chip cookies (homemade or store-bought). Three or four large cookies will do. Gently pound in a mortar and pestle (be careful not to pound into a paste!), or grind in a food processor (same paste-warning). It will truly resemble dark earthy dirt. I used a leftover slice of chocolate mousse cake that I made on another occasion, and kept in the freezer. Only use the crumbly outside layer (unless, like me, you baked the cake in the oven just a little too long, and it turns out quite crumbly throughout...).

To assemble: spoon a layer of chocolate mousse in a deep bowl that opens wide at the top. Sprinkle the dirt over to cover completely. Garnish with fresh herb leaves such as mint, basil, thyme and/or edible flowers. In the picture are slices of kumquat confit.

Kumquat Confit

1 cup cleaned kumquat

1 cup sugar

tbsp water

To clean the kumquat: quarter and scrape off the pits. Blanch three times as follows: place the kumquat quarters in a pan, cover with cold water and bring to a boil. Immediately take off the heat, drain, and start over: cold water, boil, drain. This is to remove all impurities from the skin, and reduce the bitterness. It also softens the skins. After your 3-time blanching, add a cup of sugar and 1-2 tbsp water and bring to a boil. Now, let simmer for up to 30 minutes. Cool down in the syrup and keep until ready to use. If you don't use all: it keeps for weeks in an airtight container (under syrup).

Peach Two-Ways w/Lemon-Ginger Infused Custard Sauce

Imagine the combined flavors of basil-marinated juicy peaches, the caramelized taste of roasted peaches and the velvety smoothness of a custard sauce, subtly infused with lemon and ginger. You want? Well, here are the recipes:

Basil Marinated Peach Salad
4-6 ripe peaches
handful fresh basil leaves, shredded
1/2 cup raw cane sugar (you can use plain sugar)
juice of a lemon
a pinch of grated lemon peel

Basil gives this peach salad a hint of savory herb, which contrasts beautifully with the natural sweetness of the peach. Your palate will relish these flavors, especially when they mingle with the subtle hints of lemon and ginger in the custard sauce.

• As you like, peel the peaches or use skin-on. 
• Cut the peaches in half, remove the pit and then section into parts. 
• Place in a bowl and add all other ingredients. 
• Spoon to mix carefully and leave to macerate for at least one hour, preferably 2-3 hours. By then, the liquid formed is sweet and rich with peach, lemon and basil flavors, and your peach salad is ready to be served

Roasted Peaches

1 peach, per person

a small pinch of sugar per peach half

• Preheat the oven to 180C (360F).
• Leaving the skin on, cut the peaches in half and remove the pit. 
• Sprinkle a pinch of sugar (raw cane or granulated sugar) into each pit-hole.
• place skin-side down on a non-stick baking tray and roast in the moderate hot oven for 20-30 minutes
• serve immediately, with a drizzle of the custard sauce and the marinated peach salad spooned over

Lemon-Ginger Infused Custard Sauce
3 large egg yolks
3 tbsp granulated sugar (or more to taste)
300 ml full milk
4-5 thin slices of fresh ginger
1 small piece of lemon peel

• Add the ginger and lemon to the milk and bring slowly to a boil, simmer briefly to infuse. 
• In the meantime, whisk egg yolks and sugar until pale and creamy. Add the cornflour
• Drizzle in a little of the hot milk to temper the egg mixture, whisk. Add some more milk and whisk in. 
• When egg mixture is used to the temperature of the milk, add the rest of the milk. 
• Pour the mixture back into the pan and warm over low heat until it thickens. Be careful not to "scramble" the mixture. Your custard sauce is ready when it coats to the back of a spoon and separates when you run your finger across.
• strain (the ginger and lemon peel is still in there) and serve hot or cold.

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Mango Mania: Soup, Ratatouille and Upside Down Cake

“Langras from Benares, for those who liked their mangoes tart; dussebris from Lucknow for those who liked them sweet and smooth; and chusnis, small sucking mangoes for those who preferred not to eat the fruit at all but to suck the juice straight from the skin.” (from: Climbing the Mango Trees by Madhur Jaffrey)

Flaming red to pale green, the mango is a fascinating fruit. It can be oblique oval, round as an apple, flat oblong, or shaped like a kidney. It can be big as a football, or small as a duck’s egg. Mango is a stone fruit, revered for its juicy, buttery soft flesh. It has a unique aroma that lingers between peach and pineapple, with a hint of citrus.

Color is not always an indication that a mango is ripe. A ripe mango smells “ready to eat” (smell it around the stem). It has a sweet fragrance, and feels soft under the skin. An overripe mango bruises easily, and smells cloyingly sweet. You can buy unripe mangoes, and leave them at room temperature to ripen. As for fibrous mango: the flatter ones (and flesh closer to the stone) can be very stringy. In that case, hold the mango over a container and “strip-squeeze” the pulp off.

This time of year (in Dubai) sees an abundance of fresh mango flown in from India and beyond. It is an abundance that brought on a mango mania in my kitchen. Below are three recipes with mango. Enjoy!

curried carrot and mango soup, served chilled

A Three Course Mango Meal

Curried Carrot and Mango Soup 

(makes 1 liter)

2 large carrot, diced (makes about 2 full cups)

1 medium sized mango, just ripe (you want a tart, not too sweet mango), diced

1 small/medium red onion, diced

1 tbsp curry powder (use your own favorite)

1 tbsp vegetable oil

3 cups (approx) vegetable stock 
1 cup coconut milk (coconut milk + stock is about 1 liter)
the juice of 1 small lime (to taste if your mango is sweet, leave out if you use a sour mango)

salt/pepper to taste

crème fraiche (optional)

fresh koriander (optional)

• Heat the oil. Add onions and fry gently over low heat until soft. 
• Add the carrots, stir well and leave to cook for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. 
• When the carrots have softened (and a little caramelised), add spice mix and stir.
• Mix coconut milk and stock together and add 3/4 of it to the carrots (keeping 1/4 to add at the end if needed). Simmer for 20 minutes.
• When the carrots are really soft (you can squash them easily with a fork), add the diced mango and simmer for another 5 minutes. 
• Add the lime juice (if the soup is on the sweet side). Puree until smooth with a (hand-held) blender, adding the remaining stock as needed. Taste, and garnish with crème fraiche and koriander.
• Serve hot or cold.

curried carrot soup served hot with koriander and a dollop of creme fraiche

Ratatouille of Roasted Eggplant, Cherry Tomatoes, Red Pepper and Mango 

(4 side portions)

1 medium to large buttery sweet mango, diced

1 large eggplant, diced

1 red pepper (capsicum), cleaned and diced
1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved

1 medium onion, sliced

2 cloves garlic, crushed and minced

pinch cayenne pepper

pinch cumin

pinch paprika powder (preferably smoked)

salt/pepper to taste

• Preheat the oven to 200C. 
• Toss the eggplant, onion, and red pepper with a little olive oil, the spices and some salt in an oven tray.
• Roast in the hot oven for 20 -30 minutes, tossing 2-3 times. 
• The vegetables are ready when they are starting to char a little, and have softened. 
• Add the diced mango, mix in gently. Do the same with the cherry tomatoes. Roast for another 3-5 minutes (depending on how "roasted" you want the tomatoes to be).
• Serve as a side dish with roast chicken, quail or duck for instance. Or with grilled fish. It makes an excellent vegetarian salad tossed with quinoa, and even better served with grilled halloumi.

mango ratatouille with quinoa and roasted quail

Raspberry and Mango Medley Upside Down Cake

top
50 gr unsalted butter

100 gr raw cane sugar

2 cups ripe various mango, cut into chunks*
1 cup raspberries
note: adjust the amounts of raspberry and mango to your own liking

batter

100 gr soft unsalted butter

125 gr granulated sugar

1 tsp vanilla extract

pinch of salt
1 tsp finely grated lemon peel

2 large eggs

200 gr self-raising flour, sifted

¼ cup milk (approx)

*choose a selection of different mangoes for this cake if you can. In this one, I used badami, Alphonso, and long Kenya mango. It makes for variation in color and taste.

Cake pan choice:
You can choose the diameter of your cake pan depending on the kind of cake you want. A 20 cm diameter will  give you a taller cake with a thicker fruit top (it will also need longer in the oven at a slightly lower temperature (175C). In a cake pan of 25cm diameter, your cake will be more of a pie (flatter), be more sticky (the caramel has more surface to bubble into the batter).

• Preheat the oven to 190C (175C if using a 20 cm cake pan). 
• Melt the butter in the cake pan. Add the sugar and melt until dissolved. Let the caramel cool. Divide mango and raspberry over the caramel in a regular pattern.
• Beat butter and sugar together until smooth and pale. Add vanilla extract and grated lemon peel. Add eggs one by one, plus vanilla extract and salt. 
• Add half of the sifted flour and gently mix in. Add the rest of the flour . Add enough milk for a smooth, spreadable batter. 
• Spread carefully over the arranged fruit. 
• Bake in the oven for 30-40 minutes (slightly longer for 20 cm cake pan). Check after 30 minutes with a toothpick: if it comes out clean, the cake is done. If still wet, continue to bake and check every 10 minutes.
• Let the cake cool for about 20 minutes, then turn over on a plate (careful, caramel is still hot)

25 cm cake pan raspberry and mango medley upside down cake

20 cm cake pan upside down mango cake

• The Mangifera Indica is native to South Asia, where it was first cultivated over 4000 years ago. Legend tells that a mango grove was planted for the Buddha to find a shady place to rest. Fossil evidence found in India indicates that the mango tree already existed 25-30 million years ago.
• Mango is a powerful antioxidant and an excellent source of Vitamins A, B, and C, minerals, and dietary fiber.
• an extensive list of mango cultivars is found on Wikipedia (here)
• Each year at the end of June, the International Mango Festival in Delhi is a 2-day festival where you can sample over 1100 mango varieties. 
• Climbing the Mango Trees by Madhur Jaffrey is a memoir of storytelling and childhood memories of her family life growing up in India, with the common thread of food weaving through the book. I loved it.

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Almonds, Sugar & Spice

kruidnoten (nut-shaped spiced cookies)

Spices are scenting up many a household in the weeks leading up to Christmas. Cinnamon, nutmeg, clove. Spiced pears, mincemeat, mulled wine. For some of us from the Low Countries (most commonly the Netherlands and Belgium), it starts with "Sinterklaas" a festive winter event celebrated with gifts and sweet treats: chocolate coins, almond paste biscuits, marzipan shapes and figures, chocolate letters, spiced cookies, gingerbreads, and so much more.

Sinterklaas finds his origins in the legendary figure of Saint Nicholas. Born in the 3rd century in Lycia (then part of Greece), he was the bishop of Myra (in present-day Turkey). Associated with many miracles, he is also known as Nicholas the Wonderworker. Saint Nicholas was famed and loved for his generosity and kindness to those in need, and in particular to children. He was a 'secret gift-giver'. If you left your shoes outside, he would come by and leave a little something, usually good things to eat like an apple or nuts, but also coins.

Over centuries, the festive event of Sinterklaas on December 5 (the eve of Saint Nicholas' Name Day) became a celebration of traditions, folklore, special songs and tales. The 'shoe and the gift" became a traditional part of the Sinterklaas celebration: children put their shoe with a carrot or apple "for his horse". The next morning, they will find a small gift or a sweet treat in return. Saint Nicholas (or rather perhaps through the folklore figure of Sinterklaas) was also the inspiration for Christmas' Santa Claus.

These days, Sinterklaas is a merry event for children and adults alike. It is a festive evening of sharing gifts and indulging in sweet treats, hot chocolate and bishop's wine (similar to mulled wine). Gifts are still "wrapped in secrecy and surprise", but no longer does it have anything to do with kindness to the poor. Similar to Christmas, it is more about wish lists and commerce. An apple is still a much desired gift, as long as it is the logo on an electronic device.

Below you'll find a couple of tips and recipes that will put you in a festive mood come Sinterklaas OR Christmas! 

profiteroles wrapped in golden threads of caramel fragrant with Season's Spice Mix

Season's Spices

It is the heady spice mix of cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, pepper, anise, ginger and cardamom that puts you right in the mood for hot mulled wine by the fire place. Or a chilled version outside on the patio if you live in warmer climes. This is a great spice mix to make "speculaas"(spiced biscuit). You can also use it to spice up pumpkin for a delicious pumpkin pie, or for spiced pears, for instance. I used this spice mix recently to spice up the caramel to drizzle over cream-filled profiteroles.

Season's Spice Mix

30 gr cinnamon

10 gr ground cloves

10 gr ground nutmeg

5 gr ground white pepper

5 gr ground anise seeds

5 gr ground coriander

5 gr ginger powder

5 gr ground cardamom

Almonds 

If you live in Dubai (or generally the Middle-East), shelled, blanched, and cleaned almonds are readily available. You can have it ground fine on the spot as well. It means you can skip the labor-intensive steps of blanching, cleaning and grinding the almonds yourself, and move right on to making either a marzipan, almond paste, or frangipane, depending on what you want to use the almonds for. 

Marzipan is very easy to make. Simply mix together equal amounts of finely ground almonds and icing sugar, made smooth with water. You can use egg white instead of water (it binds the marzipan even better, but I find water works just fine). Knead well, shape into a log and leave it overnight in the fridge to settle. Color the marzipan (with food coloring) and use your creative craft skills to mold fruits, farm animals, Christmas decorations. 

Marzipan "dough" is a cooked marzipan. It is based on a thick sugar syrup, cream of tartar, ground almonds and egg whites (recipe here). 

Almond Paste (recipe below) is similar to marzipan, but stickier. It doesn't do for kneading, but it is perfect for filling. Almond paste is made with ground almonds, sugar, egg and a little lemon juice. 

Frangipane is almond cream: the ground almonds are mixed with granulated sugar, butter, egg, and flour (recipe here). Frangipane is popular in (French) pastry.

"gevulde speculaas": spiced biscuit filled with almond paste

Kruidnoten (Spiced Nut-Shaped Cookies)

250 gr self-raising flour

100 gr soft, unsalted butter

125 gr soft brown sugar (the darker the sugar, the darker your cookies)

pinch of salt

2 tbsp Season's Spice Mix (recipe above)

2-3 tbsp milk

Rub flour, spice, sugar, butter, and salt together to a sand-texture. Add the milk and knead into a smooth dough (you can add an egg yolk to make it more smooth). Let rest, wrapped in plastic and in the fridge, for about an hour. 

Preheat the oven to 175C. Roll the dough into marble-sized rounds and place on a buttered baking sheet (or on a silicon mat). Bake in the oven for about 20 minutes. Let cool completely.

Gevulde Speculaas (Almond Paste Filled Spiced Biscuit)

250 gr self-raising flour

2 tbsp Season's Spice Mix (see above)

150 gr soft brown sugar (I use raw cane sugar)

150 gr unsalted butter, chilled and cut in cubes

pinch of salt

2 tbsp milk

400 gr almond paste (recipe following)

flakes or slivers of white almonds (for garnish)

1 egg yolk, beaten with a splash of milk (to glaze top)

Mix flour, salt, spices, and sugar in a bowl. Add the chilled butter and start rubbing together to a "sand" (all butter should be worked in, no lumps left). Add the milk little by little and knead to make a smooth dough. Do not overwork the dough! Wrap in plastic and keep in the fridge for an hour to settle. Butter a cake pan or baking tray (approx. 20cm diameter)

Preheat the oven to 160C. Let the dough come to room temperature and divide into two equal parts. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Press the biscuit dough in a single, even layer on the baking sheets. Divide the almond paste on one layer of doug (thickness: I don't like the almond paste to be too thick, so usually go for about 1 cm, but you can make it as thick as you prefer). Carefully lift up the remaining dough sheet and place on top of the almond layer. Brush with the egg yolk-milk to make smooth and scatter slivers or flakes of almond across. Bake in the oven for about 30-45 minutes (or until the biscuit is turning a darker brown). Allow to cool for about 10 minutes, then carefully cut into squares and leave to cool completely.

Almond Paste

(makes about 400gr)

200 gr ground almonds

200 gr granulated sugar

1 egg (beaten0

1 tsp fresh lemon juice

Mix all ingredients together and shape into a ball. Cover with plastic wrap and keep in the fridge overnight to settle.

Wrapped in puff pastry and garnished with red and green "bigarreau" (candied cherries), almond paste makes for a delicious "Christmas Log". I like to use this almond paste in Christmas Stollen. It makes for a moist deliciousness of almonds (marzipan tends to be drier and firmer). And at the risk of offending mince pie traditionalists: I like a lush layer of almond paste at the base of a mince pie.

almond paste (left) and spiced cookie dough (right)

What is your favorite Festive Season's Treat?