Lamb Kofte, Saffron Rice, and Colorful Salad

When minced lamb smells good enough to eat raw, close your eyes and you can almost picture the animal running around in a meadow rich with grasses and wildflowers. On my kitchen board was farm-fresh, pasture-raised lamb from a local ranch (link). This lamb begged for fresh herbs, for natural sweetness, for a hint of spiciness. It longed for a gentle roll on the hot grill. This lamb also sought a tantalizing liaison with the vibrant colors and crisp flavors of fresh vegetables, and the fragrance of saffron in rice. This was a weekday meal for us, one we loved so much I decided to cook the same for friends when they came to dinner. And like often, the question arose: "so do you cook like this every day?" Well, yes, I do. When I'm not eating out somewhere.

Dessert was a yogurt-coconut-lemon cake, a recipe for another time. Following recipes are for 3-4: adjust amounts accordingly!

Colorful Salad
1 orange
1 medium fennel bulb
1/2 small red cabbage
4-5 radish
1 medium red beetroot
2-3 scallions
2 small cucumber
fresh herbs (to taste)

vinaigrette
You can use any vinaigrette you like. Here's one I use
2 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp Tarragon Vinegar (I make my own; use another vinegar if you don't have)
1 tbsp fresh lemon juice
1 tbsp tahina (if you don't like tahina in this vinaigrette, use mustard)
1 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint and parsley

Prepare the vegetables: grate the beetroot, shave fennel and cabbage, slice radish thin, dice the cucumber, and chop the scallions. Layer in a wide bowl. Clean the orange and cut segments (without white). Catch the orange juice that spills and add to the vinaigrette. Add the orange to the salad, scatter fresh herbs over it all. Make a vinaigrette by mixing all ingredients together. Add the vinaigrette just before you're ready to serve. Toss at the table (all separate colors will run red the moment you toss the salad, owing to the beetroot).

Lamb Kofte
500 gr ground lamb
1 tbsp mixed spice (equal amounts of cumin, ground ginger, paprika, cayenne)
1 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint and oregano (2/3 mint, 1/3 oregano)
sea salt & fresh ground pepper to taste
1 tbsp tomato paste
1 tbsp dhibs (date syrup)
1 clove of garlic, minced

Saffron Rice
2 cups basmati rice
4 cups water
1 pinch saffron threads
1 medium/small onion, diced fine
1 tsp salt
1 tbsp butter

Rinse the rice 2-3 times. Pound half of the saffron threads in a mortar and pestle. Bring 1 cup water (of the 4 cups) to a boil, add to the pounded saffron and leave to infuse. Melt the butter in a large pan. Add the onion and sweat gently over low heat until soft and translucent. Add the rice and stir to coat in the onion-butter. Add the pounded saffron, and the water. Add salt to taste, and the rest of the saffron threads. Bring to a boil and let simmer slowly until fluffy and soft.

Cucumber, Mint & Yogurt Sauce
1 cup thick yogurt (if you use plain yogurt: let it strain in a cheesecloth for an hour or so)
1 small cucumber
1-2 cloves of garlic, minced (depending on how much garlic you like)
1 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint
salt flakes and fresh ground pepper to taste

Grate the cucumber, and let it strain in a sieve to get rid of excess liquid. Mix with the thick yogurt, and add garlic, mint, and seasoning.

and this is what happens when you toss the salad: all shades of delicious red

A recent post on Texas Local Meat: In My Kitchen here

My meat came from A Better Way Beef, a local farm I found through www.eatwild.com

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Roasted Golden Beetroot and Lobster Risotto

I like to roast beetroot bulbs. It brings out their natural sweetness, and deepens their flavor. It makes for instant flavor when you use them in a soup, or like here: in a risotto. Roasting also deepens the color, and the roasted golden beetroot gives the risotto a warm golden yellow. The eye does not go wanting with this risotto!

Ingredients (makes for a main course for 4)

2 cups Arborio rice (or other risotto rice)

100 gr butter

20 gr onions, finely chopped

1-2 liter good, flavorful stock (from scratch or organic cube, your choice vegetable or chicken)

40 gr parmesan cheese, grated

your flavor ingredient(s): in this case 1 cup finely diced roasted golden beetroot

2-3 medium cooked lobster tails, cut into chunks

It is important to have a good, flavorful stock: the grains will soak it up and make or break your risotto. If too bland, your risotto will be bland too. For the risotto you are making, add part of your flavor ingredients to the stock to simmer at least 30 minutes prior to using the stock. For instance, if you're making a mushroom risotto: add mushrooms to the stock. I added chopped beetroot to the stock prior to using it. Also, be playful with your stock: add aromatic herbs and scraps from vegetables to deepen the flavor.

Directions (to make a risotto this way will take about 20-25 minutes start to finish)

• gently soften the onions in 1/3 of the butter
• add the risotto grains to "roast" (but not brown): you will notice they get a little glossy
• add a ladle of hot stock: the shock makes the grains absorb the liquid rapidly and soften the starch to be released. When the liquid is all soaked up, add another ladle. 
• this is the process for the next 20 or so minutes: add a ladle of stock every time the liquid is incorporated. Stir to get all the grains off the sides of the pan and bottom, and simmer. I don't stir continuously, but am close to the pan at all times.
• After about 10 minutes, add half of the diced beetroot with your next ladle of stock.
• Continue to add stock and stir until the risotto starts to thicken (it will look creamier and grains have swollen in size). At this point, taste a grain and check for desired tenderness. You are looking for a little bite, but nothing "chalky". If still too firm, continue with stock and stirring. If soft enough to your liking, and not a hint of chalkiness: take off the heat, add the remaining beetroot, grated parmesan and butter. Stir well to incorporate.
• Add another ladle of stock if you want your risotto a little "runny". Add the lobster chunks to warm through (or warm separately and serve on top of risotto).

Garnishing herbs that will go well with these sweet and seafood flavors are fresh chives, young parsley, or even fresh (wild) thyme. I also like to sprinkle a couple of rose peppercorns.

ps. you could use the lobster heads for the stock. I didn't, as I find it makes the risotto overly sweet, whereas a hearty, herb-rich stock adds more savory notes to the sweetness of the golden beetroot and lobster meat. I do, however, use the "coral" chopped up and added to the risotto.

the natural beauty of golden beetroot

The Pantry Appetizer Platter

For a wine evening, I had said I would bring "a plate of something". That "something" wasn't defined until after I rummaged in fridge and pantry, and scanned over the herbs I have in my garden (the ones that survive my very un-green fingers). I love this kind of cooking: be creative with whatever your pantry and fridge hold for you. It is also a fabulous way to use leftovers and/or items that need finishing.

For this evening, I found a can of white beans, a chunk of parmesan, mild chorizo, fresh lemons, a large eggplant, leftover roasted red capsicum, soft goat's cheese, cream cheese, leftover sun-dried tomato tortillas, olives (from Markets and Platters), salami, and rosemary and basil begging to be picked.

A platter of a white bean dip, roasted eggplant relish, and creamy goat's cheese pinwheels was in the making.

white bean dip sprinkled with leftover dried espelette (see lamb shanks )

White Bean, Rosemary and Parmesan Dip
1 can white beans
juice of a lemon (or to taste)
1 clove of garlic, crushed and minced
olive oil
salt/pepper to taste
1/2 cup grated parmesan (or to taste)
1 sprig of fresh rosemary, leaves chopped

• as if making a classic hummus, pulse the white beans in a food processor with olive oil, lemon juice, and garlic until smooth but still thick in consistency. 
• heat a tablespoon of olive oil in a frying pan. Add the chopped rosemary and quickly stir until you can smell its fragrant essence (it is less than a minute).
• Add the rosemary as well as the olive oil it fried in to the white beans, pulse some more. Taste and adjust seasoning.
• spoon in the grated parmesan, and there you have it: white bean, rosemary and parmesan dip

Roasted Eggplant and Chorizo Relish
1 large eggplant
1 roasted red capsicum, skinned, seeded, and diced very small
1/2 cup chorizo, diced small
1 tbsp olive oil
1 pinch of espelette (or chilli powder to taste)
salt/pepper to taste
fresh lemon juice (to taste)

• Cut the eggplant in half lengthwise, and make a couple of cross cuts in the flesh (do not cut through to the skin). Sprinkle with coarse salt and a little olive oil, and roast in a hot oven (200C) until soft.
• Scrape the eggplant flesh out, and discard the skin. 
• "dry fry" (means without adding oil) diced chorizo in a hot nonstick frying pan until its oil comes out. Do not brown or fry overly crisp. Drain and add to the eggplant. Add the chorizo oil if you like.
• Add the diced red pepper, the lemon juice, espelette or chilli powder, and season (all to taste)
• Mix all ingredients well together, and let stand for at least 30 minutes to infuse all flavors before serving.

Goat Cheese, Basil and Pine Kernel Pinwheels

4 medium size round soft tortillas (I had sun-dried tomato tortillas in my fridge)
100 gr creamy goat cheese, room temperature
100 gr cream cheese (philadelphia), room temperature
1 cup fresh basil leaves
1 tbsp toasted pine kernels

• In a mortar and pestle, pound the basil leaves to a paste, add the pine kernels mid-way. 
• In a deep bowl, mix together the goat and cream cheese until smooth, and add the very basic pesto of basil and pine kernels (I did not add garlic: I think it takes away from the flavors of the goat cheese mixed with fresh basil and nuttiness of the pine kernels, but feel free to add it!). Leave to infuse for at least 10 minutes.
• Spread the goat cheese and basil mixture in a generous layer on a tortilla.
• Roll up tight carefully. Repeat with the remaining tortilla and cheese mixture. 
• Wrap the rolls in plastic and chill in the fridge for at least one hour.
• Cut just before serving into 1cm wide "rings" and let come to room temperature.

Pea & Okra Barley Risotto with Fried Porcini

This barley risotto is all vegetarian, and has garden peas, okra, and parmesan cheese. I comes topped with fried porcini, which you could easily replace with a mushroom to your liking (or availability) or if you don't like mushrooms: try it with grilled halloumi, for instance. For the carnivorous, I attach a link at the bottom of this post for braised lamb shanks that would go wonderful with this barley risotto instead of the porcini.

Culinary Trivia
Pearl Barley is a chewy grain with a nutty, hearty flavor. It is a wholesome grain, even if it has been polished (to which it owes it's name: pearl). Polished barley is still very rich in dietary fiber.

Okra is a pod vegetable also known as lady finger. Highly nutritious and loaded with dietary fiber, minerals and vitamins, it has a very distinctive-hate-it-or-love it characteristic: it is slimy. It is why okra can be used as a thickener, as it is in a thick, spicy soup served over rice called gumbo. Okra in this risotto has the same effect: it thickens and thus binds stock and barley grains, giving the barley risotto a little more depth of flavor in the process. I tell you, even if you're not a fan of okra because of its sliminess, you will like it in this risotto, where the sliminess "dissolves" into a creaminess you would associate with a classic risotto.

I use dried porcini - somehow, this mushroom packs deeper, almost meaty flavors dried than it does fresh. I use some of the rehydration water to add to the stock used to make the barley risotto.

Leftovers
I use pea and okra here, which you could easily substitute for whatever leftover vegetables you have. If the vegetables are too big, just cut them up. And if they are cooked already, add them last minute. I have made this barley risotto with sauteed mushrooms, with leftover fresh tomato and basil sauce, with grilled eggplant, with sauteed zucchini.



Pea and Okra Barley Risotto with Fried Porcini
(recipe for 3-4)

about one cup dried porcini, rehydrated
1 cup pearl barley, rinsed
1 cup cleaned fresh garden peas
1 cup okra
1/2 small preserved lemon (if you have no preserved lemon: use a tsp grated fresh lemon peel)
1 medium onion, chopped fine
2 garlic cloves, crushed and minced
1 tbsp (or to taste) grated parmesan
salt/pepper to taste
hearty (vegetable) stock (about a liter), add a tbsp of the porcini soaking water
1 tbsp olive oil

• rehydrate the porcini: place in a bowl and cover with hot to boiling water. Leave to stand for about 5 minutes, or until the mushrooms are soft. Drain and pat dry. Use some of the liquid to add to the stock!
• bring the stock to a boil and keep on a very low simmer.
• Heat the olive oil in a casserole over medium heat. Add the onions and sweat for 3-4 minutes, or until translucent. Add the garlic and the pearl barley, toss in the onions and add a cup of stock.
• Simmer gently so the barley can soak up all the liquid. When the liquid has gone dry, add another cup of hot stock. 
• After about 20 minutes cooking time, taste the barley, cut the okra in small rings and add to the barley. Stir and continue to add stock whenever the liquid has gone dry, and repeat this process until the barley is soft to eat : it will still have a chewy bite, but is pleasant to eat. It takes about 30-40 minutes, from the first cup of hot stock you add.
• In the last 5 minutes of cooking the barley, add the garden peas. They do not need long to cook. Finish the risotto to taste with the preserved lemon (skin only, discard the pulp), salt/pepper to taste, and grated parmesan.
• pat the rehydrated porcini dry, and heat a tbsp olive oil in a frying pan. Add the porcini (cut into smaller pieces if you prefer) and fry crisp in 1-2 minutes. 
• spoon the barley risotto onto plates, and top with the fried porcini. To taste, grate some more parmesan over the dish, and serve.
• ps. you can precook the barley for about 10 minutes, drain and then proceed. It will speed up the process (in a way: you will have another dirty pan and colander...)

This barley risotto is also excellent as a side for braised lamb shanks. In this case, leave off the porcini mushrooms. Of course you could add porcini as well, but it will be an overload of flavors.

Recipe for braised lamb shanks (click)

these fork-tender lamb shanks combine well with the nutty and refreshing tastes of pea and okra barley risotto

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Black Lentils & Grilled Swordfish

Black Lentils, Shaved Fennel, Cherry Tomatoes and Green Beans with Grilled Swordfish and a Salsa of Preserved Lemon, Capers & Tomato

The natural beauty of food. Pale white shaved fennel, bright red cherry tomatoes and green beans contrast with the dark, glistening lentils in this healthy gourmet salad. Mediterranean flavors of preserved lemon, fresh basil, and ripe tomatoes mingle with the hearty taste of black lentils, fried onions, and crushed garlic.

I like a little kick of spice in this salad. You can use chilli flakes or better yet: a hearty, spiced sausage. Like chorizo, or as I did here: fiery red, spicy Nduja from Calabria.

Black lentils are also called beluga lentils, because of their striking resemblance to caviar when cooked. Nutrition-wise, lentils are low in fat, high in protein and fiber. They cook quick and have a rustic, earthy flavor.

This black lentil salad is excellent on its own. I have made it before with scallops, and another time with grilled halloumi for a vegetarian meal. This time I served it for dinner with grilled swordfish and a salsa aromatic with preserved lemon, capers, tomato and basil. 

A spicy kick works wonderful with the black lentils. I still had some Nduja from Calabria that I used

preserved lemon gives this salad a refreshing taste

Black Lentils with Grilled Swordfish and a Salsa of Preserved Lemon, Capers and Tomato
(recipe for 2-3)

2-3 swordfish steaks
200 gr black lentils, rinsed
1 medium onion, sliced thin
1 cup red cherry tomatoes, halved
1 bulb fennel, shaved thin
200 gr French beans (haricots verts) and/or mangetouts, cooked
1 clove garlic, crushed
Spicy sausage like chorizo (or if you have it: Nduja), or chilli flakes, to taste
olive oil
salt/pepper to taste
salsa
1 small or 1/4 large preserved lemon, skin only, sliced thin
1 clove of garlic, crushed
1 tbsp capers
1/2 cup cherry tomatoes, quartered
4-5 basil leaves, shredded
1/2 cup olive oil
fresh lemon juice (to taste)
salt/pepper to taste

• For the salsa, mix all ingredients together in a bowl, add olive oil and lemon juice to taste, as well as salt and pepper. Leave to infuse until ready to use.
• Cook the lentils in ample water (unsalted) until soft, yet still have a bite (takes about 20-30 minutes, but keep your eye on them after 20 minutes). Drain and rinse.
• In the meantime, toss the shaved fennel with a squirt of lemon juice, a few drops of olive oil and a sprinkling of salt. Leave for about 15 min or longer: it softens the texture of the fennel.
• In a casserole, heat a tbsp of olive oil to medium hot. Add the sliced onions and stir fry over low to medium heat until the onions are browning slightly. Add the spicy sausage and stir for about 1-2 minutes. Add the garlic and stir for another 1-2 minutes. Add the cooked lentils and cherry tomatoes. Stir to mix all the flavors. Add seasoning to taste. Off heat, mix in the green beans and shaved fennel. You can serve the salad either hot, (luke) warm or even chilled.
• Season the swordfish and grill (either pan grill or on the BBQ) to your liking. Serve topped with the salsa over the lentil salad.

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